Kushiro to Shiretoko

When I woke up, a clear, piercing blue sky had spread out. Today, at last, was perfect touring weather.

Past Kushiro, ranches spread out beside the national road known as the Milk Road. In the distance you can see the Daisetsuzan range I rode past yesterday.

Flowers blooming on the ranch.

The Hornet, all alone.

The pastures go on forever. Along the way there was a herd of cows. Of course there are cows on a ranch, but the cow density was far too low. I thought it must be hard work for the owners.

Through the pastures to the town of Shibetsu. Across the Sea of Okhotsk you can see Kunashiri, one of the Northern Territories. You couldn't exactly swim across, but it felt about as far as Hokkaido looked from Oma.

The Shiretoko Peninsula seen from Shibetsu.

From Shibetsu toward the Notsuke Peninsula. It is Japan's largest sandspit, and the sea spreads out on both sides of this straight road.

The wildflower fields of the Notsuke Peninsula. Todo fir trees once grew thick here, but perhaps because of rising sea levels they have now withered where they stand.

From the Notsuke Peninsula, Kunashiri is only 16 km away. That's less than half the distance from Oma to Hakodate. Looking at its coast through binoculars, I could even see buildings. They say about 5,000 Russians live there, so a solution to the Northern Territories issue didn't feel realistic. On the Habomai Islands, apparently only border guards live.

At the Northern Territories centre on the Notsuke Peninsula: a stuffed bird.

A poster on display inside the centre. Apparently hit-and-run accidents involving animals never stop.

Riding straight along the coastline toward Rausu.

A grilled saury set meal at the Rausu roadside station. Maybe a little early for the season, but very tasty. With a portion this big I think it was only about 800 yen.

The shore at Rausu was covered in seagulls.

Mt. Rausu seen from the town of Rausu. An imposing mountain. From here I would cross Shiretoko Pass at its base and go across the Shiretoko Peninsula.

A deer appeared near Shiretoko Pass! I hurriedly stopped the bike and went closer. But it didn't run. Perhaps it's used to people. It was strange that a deer, which should be wary, didn't run away. Neither photo is zoomed. I got to about 1 m away. Cute.